Capitol Reef, Mesa Verde and Black Canyon

Capitol Reef was very relaxed, fewer (German) tourists compared to Bryce Canyon, with a nice campground. There were a few short hikes one could take, but we thought we wanted to take the hike up Grand Wash to see the “slot canyon”. Technically a slot canyon is a canyon where you can touch both sides at the same time, and Grand Wash a just a tad too wide, but it still should be very impressive.

 

The first day we went to the visitor center (as Felix says, there they have Felix books –  childrens books and he likes to sit on the floor and read them). The ranger said that it probably was not a good idea to hike there today due to potential rain and flash floods. We biked a bit around and when the clouds got really black we went back to the campground for Felix to get his nap and to just hang around. Capitol Reef’s campground is very nice and very quiet

 

Next day it was out to hike the canyon. We were not early, but not really late either. As we drove up on the parking lot at the start of the hike a few drops came down. We debated if we should hike or not – the drops became real rain and we decided to wait a bit. Instead we drove to the end of the canyon to look. At the end of the canyon we ate our lunch and as we had just finished it. a ranger came and told that the road back to the campground was closed and they had gotten all hikers out of Grand Wash. There was probably 2 feet (50-60 cm) of water in Grand Wash and since it crosses the road in several places they didn’t want people to get stuck in it. After a few minutes the rangers had changed their mind – we could get out if we followed him. The hike was closed from then on as the road to the parking lot was, at places, in the wash and they didn’t want to have the road spoiled by people driving through the mud.

 

Mesa Verde was different. The campground was huge, but with almost no-one staying there. With more than 300 sites and less than 100 taken it looked almost like a ghost town. The sites were supposed to be “private” with bushes around, but the bushes had grown so that the fire pit was under the trees. However, it had showers (free, might I add) and laundry – a big plus for us. Strangely it also was at least 10 miles from all the action in the park, so no bike rides around here.

 

The first day we went to the visitor center to get tour tickets for Balcony House (the same day) and Cliff Palace (the next day). Tours at these places are only with a ranger (guide) and especially Balcony House was said to be sooooo strenuous that we decided to take Felix in his carrier. The walks were pretty easy and Felix really liked the ladders so much that the second day we decided that there was no need for him to sit.

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In the afternoon Felix was supposed to nap. We parked near the museum and put him to sleep in his bed. After maybe half an hour it started to rain and thunder and after an hour and a half we gave up with the nap. No wonder he could not sleep as the thunder was actually shaking the bus!

Afterwards we walked a bit around, to a place called Spruce Tree House, in the rain. No surprise to anyone that Felix loved that.

 

In the evening we tried to take evening pictures of Cliff Palace:

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And a place called Square Tower House

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In the evening we stopped at the lodge to check email, post entries on the web and get something to eat. After our poor food at the lodge in Bryce we were not sure what to expect, but the food was really great. Felix got buffalo bratwurst and Sabine and I got pork tenderloin with mole sauce – and very well made. Umm.

The second day we took the Cliff Palace tour (which was even easier than the first). It is quite amazing how many houses are still visible after aprox. 700 years.

 

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Now off to Black Canyon of the Gunnison, after laundry, a shower and a few phone calls. If you have read “Gas for less than four dollars” you know how the trip went !!

 

Black Canyon was supposed to be out there with no shower, no water, no dumping – no nothing – but it actually had power (but no water – drinking water is trucked in). The canyon is about 2700 ft (810m) deep and not very wide. It was truly amazing to look at. At most places you could see the river and the narrow canyon.

 

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The campground host, an “almost” retired architect from Kentucky, gave us some tips of what to see (and not to see) on the east coast. Let us see how we can use this.

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